When it comes to getting the most out of your air rifle—whether you’re plinking, hunting, or shooting in competition—pellet choice plays a huge role. But should you go as far as weighing your pellets? And if so, when does it make a real difference?
In this guide, we’ll explore:
- Why do heavier or lighter pellets suit different types of rifles
- What causes those frustrating fliers
- Whether weighing pellets is worth your time
- What type of scales do you need
- And when to just stop overthinking and get out shooting
Finding the Right Pellet for Your Airgun
As a general rule of thumb:
- Heavier pellets tend to perform better in pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) rifles
- Lighter pellets are usually more efficient in springers
Of course, this isn’t a hard rule; going too heavy or too light results in efficiency drops. What you’re after is the “sweet spot.”
For many sub-12 ft/lb rifles, two tried-and-tested options stand out:
While not perfect for every barrel, they consistently deliver strong accuracy and energy retention across a wide range of rifles.
Tip: Don’t assume a cheap pellet of the same weight will perform the same. Lead composition, skirt quality, and uniformity matter. Even if you don’t use JSB or AADF regularly, it’s worth keeping a tin of each for testing purposes.
Avoid Slugs and Fancy Designs for Efficiency Testing
Slugs, pointed tips, flat-heads, and plastic-hybrid pellets might look cool, but they’re usually not the most efficient for sub-12fpe rifles. They can give false impressions of your rifle’s power during chrono testing.
Stick to high-quality domed pellets unless you have a specific use case in mind.
Why Do Pellets of the Same Weight Fly Differently?
The number printed on a tin of pellets is just a target average—not a guarantee that every pellet weighs exactly that much.
What That Means:
Manufacturers aim for a specific average weight (e.g. 8.44 grains), but due to slight variations in casting, trimming, or lead distribution, most pellets will:
- Fall within ±0.1–0.2 grains of that figure
- Have a few outliers that may vary more significantly (0.3 grains or more)
These inconsistencies are why some pellets—especially the outliers—can cause unpredictable shots, also known as “fliers.”
Practical Example:
If your tin says 8.44 grains, you might find:
- 30% of pellets = 8.4gn
- 50% = 8.5gn
- 10% = 8.6gn
- 10% = outside that range
So, while the tin says 8.44gn, you’re dealing with a distribution of weights around that number. This becomes particularly important in tuning and competition shooting, where consistency is crucial. Even slight differences in skirt damage or internal lead balance can affect flight characteristics. If you’re pushing for precision, these details matter.
Should You Weigh Your Pellets?
Yes, if:
- You’re tuning your gun to sit close to the 12fpe legal limit
- You’re chrono testing for consistency
- You shoot Benchrest or HFT and want every mm of accuracy
No, if:
- You’re casually plinking or field-shooting
- You value time more than 1–2mm tighter groups
- You’ll gain nothing from obsessive weighing under real hunting conditions
In short: weighing pellets is a tool—not a necessity.
Pellet Scales: What You Actually Need
You don’t need £500 lab-grade equipment. But you do need realistic expectations.
- Budget: £30–£100
- Type: Jewellery or pellet-specific scales
- Units: Use grains (gn) , not grams (g)
- Precision: Weigh to 0.1gn only – anything finer is overkill
Be wary of marketing claims. Even if a scale claims 0.001g precision, it may not be repeatable in practice. That’s fine, your rifle won’t notice the difference between 8.43gn and 8.47gn anyway.
How to Weigh and Sort Pellets
- Weigh one at a time, placing them into piles by weight (e.g., 8.4gn, 8.5gn, 8.6gn)
- Re-zero your scales every 5–10 pellets
- Keep pellets from the same batch together – different batches = different dies = different results
- Use sorted pellets for testing or comps, and throw odd ones into your plinking tin
If you’re weighing pellets from multiple tins, stick to the same batch number. Even small production changes can affect accuracy.
Chrono Testing and Pellet Weight
When testing your rifle’s power output, a simple 10-shot string with pellets straight from the tin is usually enough.
If you’re getting inconsistent readings or your power is right on the edge of legality, then consider weighing pellets to rule out variability.
Don’t obsess over perfection. Even the best scales have limits, and you’ll get diminishing returns beyond a certain point.
Summary: Pellet Weighing – Worth It?
Worth it for:
- Precision chrono tuning
- Competition shooting
- Testing pellet consistency
Not worth it for:
- Casual shooting
- Hunting in variable conditions
- Beginners still getting used to their rifle
Final Tips:
- JSB Heavies and AADF Express are excellent starting points
- Use same-weight and same-batch pellets for accuracy
- Avoid slugs or exotic pellet shapes for efficiency testing
- Don’t chase decimal-point perfection—save your sanity (and your shooting time)
Enjoy your rifle, learn how it behaves with different pellets, and remember: sometimes, the best thing you can do for your shooting is just to get outside and pull the trigger.